Peru - Machu Picchu

[snowfoot]

Hey there,

I'm thinking about taking a trip to Machu Picchu in September. I know that's the coldest season (which is why it's less expensive) - about 67-degrees F. Anyone been there before and can tell me if that a good idea - especially when we're at a higher altitude?

Thanks.

[Lynn]

When I went it was the end of August, the weather was fine. Cool in the morning but it warmed up quickly and was hot by afternoon, so layer your clothing.

I have to tell you, that is one of my top 10 sights, I will never forget the feeling of walking thru those ruins. It was awe inspiring.

[Kairho]

I'll be there in February.....

[ebrener]

You should be fine in September, as Lynn said. Khairo, February is the middle of Summer, and it's rainy season, just so you know and are prepared.

[snowfoot]

Thank you everyone!

[Kairho]

Nothing wrong with rain . . .

[weblet]

Nothing wrong with rain . . .
. . . as long as you're not in Oz...

[deangreenhoe]

. . . as long as you're not in Oz...

...that was snow. The only thing it rained in Oz was flying monkeys and killer houses.

[weblet]

...that was snow. The only thing it rained in Oz was flying monkeys and killer houses.
Technicality only. Sleep or melt.

[ebrener]

Nothing wrong with rain . . .

Unless it brings mudslides that can ruin roads and rail tracks...

[Ned]

Machu Picchu is a must for anyone interested in "American" history. We have been there, and if I have more time to spend in South America this month, I would have returned there tomorrow.

If you can, I strongly suggest you try to stay at one of the hotels at Machu Picchu, rather than just do the usual, which is take the train from Cuzco.

For example, the Hotel Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge is right at the top of the citadel of Machu Picchu. It's not a luxury hotel, but it's location is perfect. It's a small hotel with only 32 rooms. It is rated 3 star and beware, is very expensive for that rating (which is about right) because of the location.

One of the great things about staying there is that you have early morning access to the ruins, unlike those coming on the train from Cuzco. You can just walk out of the hotel's front door and your are there! At times, when the train arrives, there's wall to wall people in the ruins, and you can barely move around and see them.

You could also stay at nearby Aguas Calientes, in a more luxurious hotel such as the SUMAQ Machu Picchu Hotel, from which you can get to the ruins in the morning before the crowds from the train come in later.

By the way there is talk of raising the Machu Picchu entry fee to $100 per person next year for non-Peruvians to help fund conservation projects there and potentially reduce the number of visitors. Machu Picchu is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and maybe put on the "Endangered List" due to what many believe to be mismanagement on the part of the Peruvian Government to preserve this incredible place.

[Kairho]

We are off to Lima on Friday morning. And although the Lima forecast is part sun, Cuzco, Machu Picchu and Puno are expecting rain as predicted above. Hopefully it will only be showers but we will nonetheless be prepared for anything.

[Ned]

Peru is one of my favorite countries in South America. Mrs. N. and I have found the Peruvians, and especially the Quechuans a wonderful people. Machu Picchu is one of the great places I've visited. I hope the do much more work on saving it soon. It's really declined in the last 20 years of tourism. It needs better organization to preserve it.

We are off to Lima on Friday morning. And although the Lima forecast is part sun, Cuzco, Machu Picchu and Puno are expecting rain as predicted above. Hopefully it will only be showers but we will nonetheless be prepared for anything.

[ebrener]

We are off to Lima on Friday morning. And although the Lima forecast is part sun, Cuzco, Machu Picchu and Puno are expecting rain as predicted above. Hopefully it will only be showers but we will nonetheless be prepared for anything.

Have a great trip Kairho, and enjoy my homeland. How long are you spending in Lima? Do you want any restaurant, or other recommendations?

Regards,

Enrique

[Kairho]

Thanks, Enrique! I knew you were from some place in SA but did not know it was Peru.

We are planning a big bash dinner at La Rosa Nautica on Saturday evening. Most all other meals in Lima (4 days total) will be at local, traditional places (cervecherias!) with maybe one at one of the new-fangled fusion type places. If you have a rec for the latter we would appreciate it! I also made arrangements to go to Cabalgatas (http://www.cabalgatas.com.pe/) for horseback riding on Sunday.

[ebrener]

La Rosa Nautica sounds good. I haven't eaten there in ages, so I don't know if the quality has declined, though.

As far as other restaurants, I can recommend Jose Antonio for a very nice typical dinner (their lomo saltado is their specialty). Not a cevicheria, it focuses more on other dishes. Also, La Mar and Pescados Capitales, but especially La Mar, is what you're looking for (fusion-type place). Other cevicherias are Punta Sal and Muelle Uno. If you get a chance to have sushi, it's excellent, and much more varied than here (in terms varieties of fish, especially).

Where are you staying?

Regards,

Enrique

[Kairho]

La Rosa Nautica just looked good, and came with a recommendation by a friend who was there mid last year.

Thanks for the suggestions. (Except for the sushi which I won't go near...) Since I made arrangements through Brendan (no time to plan what with the other two major trips this year!) we will be at Hotel & Suites Las Americas which will probably be soulless and nondescript, but clean. Hopefully your suggestions will be nearby. But I'm sure concierge will have suggestions for those little hole-in-the-wall places which we love.

[ebrener]

I know Las Americas. It's on Pardo Ave. in Miraflores. In fact, I have clients who stayed there last week. It's very well located, a close taxi ride to the "modern" Lima (Miraflores, San Isidro, Barranco).

One thing you should be aware of. A lot of the cevicherias and hole in the wall places are open for lunch only. So you may consider some other restaurants for dinner. A couple more recommendations are La Trattoria di Mambrino (Italian, obviously) not far from your hotel, Bohemia (international and modern Peruvian cuisine, also with a lively bar, in the Ovalo Gutierrez - the taxi will know :D), and you can ask for more recommendations there. If you like Chinese food, it's completely different in Lima, as it's more Mandarin style with a mix of Peruvian (it's called Chifa). Also, at night, you should go to Barranco, which is a "bohemian" neighborhood close to Miraflores. There's a street with a lot of clubs and bars. I'm partial to La Noche. You should also consider going to a Pena, which has typical Peruvian music and dancing, plus food. Get a recommendation for a good one from the concierge at the hotel.

Enjoy!

Enrique

[Kairho]

Thanks, Enrique! Your comments are now in the "official" traveling folder!

[Kairho]

Have returned. Not the best trip ever but not the worst, either. Somewhere in the middle.

A couple of comments. We were extremely impressed with the food in Peru. Almost everywhere it was fresh and quite good. (For Enrique, our favorite restaurant in Lima was Huaca Puclliana, followed by Vista al Mar (at Larcomar), La Rosa Nautica and Astrid & Gaston. Accommodations at Hotel Las Americas (corner of Larco and Benevides) were better than expected and not quite as sterile as anticipated. We also stayed at 3 Casa Andina Private Collection hotels and the Inkaterra Macchu Picchu Pueblo.

MP was fabulous, as were the Nasca Lines. Could have done without the 2 nights in Puno ... what a sorry little town.

[ebrener]

A couple of comments. We were extremely impressed with the food in Peru. Almost everywhere it was fresh and quite good. (For Enrique, our favorite restaurant in Lima was Huaca Puclliana, followed by Vista al Mar (at Larcomar), La Rosa Nautica and Astrid & Gaston.
MP was fabulous, as were the Nasca Lines. Could have done without the 2 nights in Puno ... what a sorry little town.

Welcome back Kairho! I'm glad you had an overall good time. Yes, food in Peru will surprise most visitors. I had heard good things about Huaca Pucllana, but haven't tried it myself yet. Gaston (of Astrid y Gaston) Acurio is a very well known checf (Astrid is his wife). They have a few more restaurants in addition to A&G. One of them is La Mar, which has also recently opened in San Jose, Costa Rica, and is managed by a friend of mine.

I wish you had mentioned Puno before. I would have told you there's nothing to see there. You would have been much better off going to Arequipa or Huaraz.

Welcome back!

[Kairho]

The only reason for Puno was that we got to ride the train from Cusco. ...and it was on the tour (yes, we did a group tour because I was just too lazy to work it out myself).

Turns out that was a good decision because of the riots in Cusco Department when we were there. Farmers were demonstrating because of various things the government was doing. Moderately bad rioting (2 killed), many roads blocked by stones and boulders. The train only operated between Ollaytaytembo and PM Pueblo because of fears of attacks between there and Cusco. And the Cusco airport was closed the day we were there. But watching the demonstrators at Plaza del Armas there was fun. So all in all it was good we were on a tour and didn't have to negotiate the problems.